Rag Rugs Tour
1. Tambour
2. Shirred
3. Standing wool
4. Knitted
5. Flat Wrap
6. Amish Knot
7. Chain Braids
8. Broomstick & String
Crochet
9. Crocheted
10. Fabric Tapestry
11. Anchored Loop
12. Hooked, Poked,
Prodded, Bodkin
13. Needleworked
14. Toothbrush rugs
15. Braided rugs
16. Knotted &
strung shags
17. Loom woven
18. Patched (penny rugs)
&
sewn shags
19. Frame made rugs
20. Wagon wheel &
frame braids
21. Odds 'n ends
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Rag Rugs Tour
#18 Patched ("Penny") Rugs & Sewn Shag
Rag
Rugs
Patched Rugs
Patched rugs are made by stitching layers of wool to a wool backing.
The oldest of these rugs were in
a hit or miss arrangement, then in blocks and later in circles. Modern
patched rugs often include animal shapes cut from wool as the upper
layer.
The various traditional types of these rugs get their name from the
shape
of the patches used in the surface design. With round patches, they are
called dollar or penny rugs. With rectangular patches having two
rounded
corners at one end: shingle or tongue rugs. Square patches: layered
blocks.
An example of a layered block rug is shown. The joining stitches
between
the blocks are in a blue linen so they don't show well in the photo.
Edging
stitches around the layers are in a natural linen color.
Also in this family of rugs are the 'woven strip' rugs where
wool strips
were woven flat to form a mat, and then stitched together with
decorative
stitches. Traditionally, the blanket stitch or buttonhole stitch was
used
with linen thread to secure the pieces of wool. More recent patched
rugs
show a wide variety of embroidery stitches, blurring the line between
these
rugs and some wool 'crazy quilts'.
Not all patched rugs had flat surfaces. In particular the
'waterlilly'
pattern allowed for unstitched edges of some pieces to be raised above
the level of the rug. Most surviving patched rugs were used as table
runners
or wall hangings.
Sewn Shags
This family of rugs includes any where small pieces or strips of
fabrics
are stitched to a backing fabric, at one edge or in the center,
creating
a raised or shaggy surface. A common backing fabric for these types of
rugs was mattress ticking, since the stripes in the fabric created
guidelines
for stitching. Most often these rugs had simple stripes or a very basic
geometric pattern, if any, but in the two rugs below, Ruth Cannon of
North
Carolina shows that sewn shags can be wonderful examples of modern
design
as well.You can learn more about Ruth and her rugs by clicking on our Rugmaker's
Exchange.
 
A wide variety of sewn shag rugs were made:
1. Strips or patches. These rugs were made by stitching
one
edge of the fabric strip (plain or gathered along the edge) or a small
piece of fabric to the base, so that one edge stood out. Flat strips of
fabric were also stitched down the center to the backing, creating two
standing edges for each strip.
2. Caterpillar Rugs. Fabric strips were gathered in the
center
along a string, and stitched with the edges up to form the rug surface.
Because of the gathering process, these rugs often carry the mistaken
name
of "shirred" rugs. Their most common name however was caterpillar rugs,
since the gathered sections of fabric rather resemble a caterpillar.
(See Links
for a painting of an old caterpillar rug)..
3. Accordian rugs. Fabric strips were laid on the backing
fabric,
then stitched across repeatedly, with folds of the strip standing up in
accordian style folds.
4. Ravel knit rugs. Old sweaters and other worn out
knitted
garments were unravelled to salvage the yarn. The yarn was then
re-knitted
into long narrow strips which were then stitched to the backing fabric
along one edge, creating a thick pile. (This can also be done with new
yarn or with cut sweaters or stockings, without the unravelling and
reknitting.)
5. Fork-wrapped Sewn Shags. A tool like a crochet "fork"
(for
making hairpin lace), was wrapped with rag strip, then fed under the
foot
of a sewing machine, with the stitching catching the middle of the
wraps,
securing them to the backing fabric. As the sewing proceeded, the wraps
were fed along the fork, and more wraps added at the back end. The
loops
were most often clipped to create a shaggy surface.
Also, see our links page for other
sites with
photos of old sewn shag and patched rugs, and the Rugmakers
Exchange.
LETTERS
Shirring with Knitting?
Dear Diana, One question. I have a rug book that states
that shirred
rugs can be constructed using knitting to secure the fabric. I know and
understand the crochet method and while I am an expert knitter, I've
never
been able to figure out how to use knitting to do this! Any help or
thoughts
on this? Was the writer just blowing smoke? Thanks, Jana Trent
Dear Jana, The author you talk about was a victim of the fact that
there isn't a standard terminology dealing with rag rugs, which is a
problem
we're trying to correct. The "shirred" rug that she was talking about
is
actually a rug with a sewn texture on a base of burlap or mattress
ticking.
The Shakers made this type of mat which consisted of narrow bands of
knitting,
that were then gathered up with a running stitch and then sewn to the
backing.
Very different than true shirred rugs, and your reaction was right!
Anyway,
their rugs were called 'ravel mats' or 'ravel knit' rugs, but there are
still a lot of people who don't know that these rugs aren't true
"shirred"
rugs.
Since you're an expert knitter, there is another old type of
rug, which
I don't have a bulletin out on yet, which uses knitting sort of like
shirred
rugs and you may want to try it. It was also made in the early 19th
century
and is one of the "strung shag" family of rugs. Cut strips of cotton
fabric
about 3/4 inches wide and about 1 to 1-1/2 inches long. Fold them in
half.
Using a needle and cotton crochet thread, string the scraps through the
folds. Use largish knitting needles (at least size 10), and with the
end
of the string cast on as many stitches as you want for the width of the
rug. On each row (plain garter stitch), slide one scrap down to the
work,
and knit one. Each stitch holds a scrap, and you have to make sure all
the folded ends are to the same side. The only problem is that there is
a limit to how many scraps can be strung before the work gets awkward
so
you have to cut the string fairly often to string more scrap, then tie
on again to continue knitting. It is an interesting old technique
though!
Have fun! DBG
Copyright Rafter-four Designs
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