If you have a question about traditional rugmaking just e-mail us.  Please note that questions about a particular type of rug are now included on the relevant stop on the "Rag Rugs Tour". On this page you'll find questions and answers on general rug making topics that apply to lots of different types of rugs. 

Because this letters page is getting out of hand, we are beginning to group the letters topically so that you can find a subject more easily. These are the groupings so far:

CLEANING OLD RUGS AND WOOLENS---BREAD BAG RUGS ---FOLDING STRIPS & USING FOLDERS---CHOOSING WHICH RUG TO MAKE---RUGS TO MAKE WITH CHILDREN--- RUGS FROM WOOL ROVING

CLEANING OLD RUGS 

CLEANING A LARGE RUG
I would like to know how to clean an 8' round antique rug? 

Good morning, I'm guessing that you have a round braided wool rug? And that it is in good shape other than being soiled and in need of cleaning? If that's the case, the easiest way to clean it yourself is to: 1. Vacuum the rug thoroughly on both sides, using the suction attachment only (not the beater bar) of your vacuum cleaner. 2. Then lay the rug on a large sheet of plastic to protect the underlying floor. Use a carpet cleaning machine of the type that shoots out water, and then vacuums it up--- but not one with rotating brushes. Go over each side once with warm water a *mild* rug cleaner (like woolite), and then once or twice just with warm water to completely remove any soap. Make sure to suck out as much of the water as absolutely possible. 3. Once both sides are cleaned, let the rug dry. It will need to dry flat on the plastic, and will need to be turned over a couple of times so that both sides have a chance to dry. If there is still some dampness in the rug, it will develop a sour smell. If you have a stout railing or line, the rug can air dry for the last part to make sure it is thoroughly dry. 

Rugs of that size are *heavy*, so make sure you have some good strong helpers to assist with the turning and handling during the cleaning.

Hope that helps, Diana

Round 2: Thank you for your quick response to my question. I should have read your site and the tour before I asked my question. My rug is a single strand detached chain rug. Would the cleaning instructions be the same? 

Yes, if it is a wool rug, just the same. If it is cottons, the only difference would be to use a mild foam-type spray-on carpet cleaner on any spots that show staining or discoloring, before you use the carpet cleaning machine. Cottons seem to hold on to stains a little more than the wools, so the extra step helps.Best, Diana 

CLEANING A LARGE NEEDLEPOINT RUG
Hi Could you possibly advise me as to the proper procedure to clean a 9'x12' needle point rug. I have read your comments on other rugs but want to be sure I get it right.I would appreciate any help you may offer. Mary
Hi Mary, Just a couple of questions first to make sure I don't steer you wrong... Is the rug made with wool yarn on a standard needlepoint canvas or is it on some other base? Is the rug in good condition? Any places so worn that the backing is showing through, or tears or holes? How heavily soiled is it? Just spots or pretty much all over? Also if you have an idea how old the rug is, that would help. Best, Diana 
Diana Yes the rug is wool yarn on a standard needlepoint canvas. It is 6 yrs old. The rug is in good condition, no holes or heavy wear. The rug has a overall soiled appearance and some medium soiled traffic paths. I think the rug needs a overall cleaning and there are no commercial rug cleaners in the area that have experience with needlepoint rugs, so I was looking for advice on the correct way to do it myself. Thanks for your reply. Mary 
Hi Mary, Ok, I think you'll need to proceed in two steps, since you have some traffic patterns to deal with. You'll want to get some plastic sheeting under the rug if it isn't on a vinyl or other waterproof floor. Also, you'll need some "Woolite" foaming carpet cleaner, and a rug cleaning machine *without* rotating bristles... the kind that just shoots water in and vacuums it back up. Some machines come with an upholstery tool, and you can use that also so long as there aren't rotating bristles. (Actually, needlepoint rugs aren't treated like "rugs" at all when cleaning... think of it more like cleaning a really big piece of upholstery.)

With the "Woolite" foaming carpet cleaner, and do a spot test in a tiny place just to make sure of color fastness. (Spray on the foam, let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes, and wipe it up with a damp rag--don't scrub. If there is *any* color in the foam, other than from dirt on the surface, don't go any farther.) If the spot test is ok, then use the foam on the traffic areas. The can will say to scrub the stuff into the rug, but that isn't a good idea with a yarn rug. Just use a damp cloth and work it around and around a bit so it gets good coverage on the surface, then let it sit for 10 minutes or so, and wipe the surface first with a damp rag, to get the foam up. Then wipe gently with a slightly wetter rag, rinsing often. 

Then, spray just enough foam over the whole rug to get it spread from edge to edge. You don't want a thick layer of foam, just enough like frosting on a cake. Work it around gently with a damp cloth, like before, and then let it sit for 10 minutes or so. The foam should be almost gone. Then using the carpet machine and lukewarm (not hot) water, go over the surface making sure to suck out as much water as you can. You don't want the rug to get sopping wet. And you don't want to rub hard on the surface of the rug when it is damp since that can damage the yarns. 

Then you want the rug to dry as fast as possible. If you are where you can hang it up outside over a line, that will work for the initial drying. (Otherwise, put towels under the rug, and set up a fan to blow across the top.) When the rug is very very close to dry, but not quite, take it off the line and lay it on the floor to finish drying flat. Don't let anybody walk on it or set any furniture on it until it is absolutely dry. 

Hope that helps, and if the spot test doesn't work, give a holler.... Best, Diana 

RESCUING OLD RUGS
Thanks for a great page, info and the rugs are beautiful. I have two wool rag rugs of my Grandmothers which I would like to launder and repair. My brother-in-law wanted to throw them away!!!!??!! So, I rescued them and look forward to restoring them. Any advice. Thanks

Hi Jayne, Good for you rescuing the old rugs! As to how to launder & repair them, it depends on what type of rug they are (hooked? braided? shirred?), and what type of repairs they need (are the attaching threads broken, are there holes?).As a general rule though, you don't want to launder the rug until the repairs (or at least any structural damage) is done.

PRESERVING A GIFT OF OLD WOOL FOR RUGS
Hi, I enjoy your web site. You folks are doing a wonderful job. Thanks so much for sharing all the information. I am a rug hooker and a weaver, spinner, knitter and I also sew. Recently a woman gave me a huge amount of wool material that had been in her mothers home for years. To the best of my knowledge it looks great. I see no sign of moth invasion. I have the material in a barrel in my garage. How can I protect this from moth invasion. If I am going to make rugs from this material I would like to rest assured that the moths will not destroy my work. Is there something I can wash the fiber in to permanently protect it from the moths once my pieces are completed? Thanks, Bonnie 

Hi Bonnie, So glad you liked the website. About your wool, you have several options. There are of course the old fashioned moth balls, but they are toxic and make the fabric smell. If the barrel is airtight, it is probably all right if it has lasted this long. If the pieces of wool are large, you might want to consider having them all dry cleaned before resealing them in the barrel, and it should keep as long as the seal is intact. If the pieces are small, you can handwash them (Woolite or similar), rinse once in salt water, then in clear water, make sure they are thoroughly dry, and put them back in the barrel, though that isn't as certain as dry cleaning. I don't know of any permanent moth treater that is available. Hope that helps. Diana 
 

USING SALT TO PRESERVE WOOLENS
Hi - I just found your website. What a great find. Keep up the good work. I am a rug braider for about thirteen years. I was intrigued by one of your suggestions to rinse wool material in salt water. Can you expand on why, and how much salt etc. Thanks Barbara from Pennsylvania
Hi Barbara, In the days before moth balls, there weren't a lot of options for killing moth eggs (and other critters) in fabrics. Salt was a commonly used disinfectant, antibiotic and pesticide for all sorts of uses, since the chemistry of salt (in the right concentration) can rupture the cell walls of soft bodied insects, insect eggs, bacteria, etc. I pulled out that old use, because I'm not a big fan of the toxic mothballs. (The other benefit with wool particularly, is that a salt rinse often brightens the colors of wools that have dulled.) 

As for how much salt to use, it depends on how much wool you're going to put through the bath, and if you're trying to make sure the wool is somewhat protected from insects. In a bathtub, about 4-5 cups of salt in the bath would do a good rinse for 20-30 pounds of wool. (If you're only trying to brighten the colors a bit, it doesn't take near as much, maybe 1to 1-1/2 cups of salt in the bathtub.) Whichever rinse you use, be sure to do a couple of clear water rinses to make sure it gets all of the salt out. 

Well, there's a bit of old rug lore--hope that clarifies it for you. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

CLEANING OLD WOVEN COTTON RUGS
I hope you can help me. I have some very old rag rugs that were my grandmother's. I believe they were woven from old clothing scraps. They are beautiful but are very dirty. They were in an open box in my mom's garage for many years. They seem in good condition, just in need of cleaning. Can you advise me on how to have them cleaned? Also, two of them are long hall runners and I would like to divide one of them into several rugs. Any books you can recommend on how I can do this? Should I try and find a professional to do it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. Sue 

Dear Sue, You may have a big problem. Cotton rugs that are stored with dirt on them are often time bombs--they look fine, but fall apart in the washer--- so whatever you do, don't throw them in the washing machine until you know for a fact what their condition is. What I'd suggest you do is hand wash them first in the bathtub, with a mild detergent and warm water. Let them soak, and only agitate by hand, then rinse them several times. Lay them over a rail or clothes line to dry, and then inspect them closely. Look for warp threads that have parted (often these only show up once the rug is clean, since the dirt stiffens the threads and holds them in place making it look like the rug is fine, when it really isn't). Make sure to inspect both sides of the rug. 

Since these sound like 'heirloom' type rugs, being your grandmother's, a little extra care in restoration is justified. Where the warp threads have broken or are missing, 'reweave' the section, using a heavy mercerized cotton thread or crochet thread that is as close to matching the original as you can find. Start the reweaving at least 10 rows above the break and continue below the break. 

Remember that the fibers in both the warp and the cotton rags is well aged, and cotton does weaken and rot over time. The rug is going to be most vulnerable to breakage when it is wet because of the weight on the threads. It is very likely to be damaged from agitation in a washer (even on gentle cycle). So, if the rugs don't get 'clean' after the first wash, the next step is the old fashioned 'boil'. It may be hard to find a pan large enough to fill with water and the rug and boil the rug, but that is the best way to clean a very old one if the dirt is stubborn. 

Dividing long woven hall runners can be done, so long as it is cut across the width, not along the length. Most likely you have tied fringes on the ends of the rug now, and you will want the new ends to look the same. What you'll need to do is cut the rug and then unravel several rows of weaving to get enough warp thread to tie in knots so there will be some loss in the length of the rug. The big trick with doing this is that it has to be done *fast* or more rows will unravel than you want. I'd suggest you get a friend who has done some weaving to help you when you're ready to cut. You can of course, sew across the end row with a heavy duty machine to minimize unwanted ravelling, but the machine seam will show. 

Well, that's the story... hope it helps....Diana

BREAD BAG RUGS

Hi Diana! I found the comments interesting about the plastic bread bags used for rugs. I come from Upper Peninsula Michigan where many 2 and 4 harness rag rug weavers are to be found because of the Swedish/Finnish populations there. Many rectangular shaped rugs made from bread bags survived for years and were really quite colorful. Since purchased bags were long and narrow and usually had a fold at the bottom, they could be opened flat into one longer wide strip by cutting the side seams open. Then they could be cut into desired widths for weaving and sewn on the sewing machine just like the rags were done. I remember how Roman Meal bags were that golden brown color while the Wonder Bread had the white with primary polka dots, Bunny Bread was I think yellow and blue. Quite a pattern could be made. One of my girlfriends told me that her grandmother had to collect the bags from a lot of other people to get the variety, and also because she made her own bread! Thanks for your site, all the work it involves, and for shipping my last order so quickly, I'm having a great time! Pam
Hi Pam, What a wonderful letter- I *definitely* will put it up on the next letters update. I'm sure a lot of folks will enjoy it too. Thanks for sending it. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

Hi: I really enjoyed the visit I took to your web site about rag rugs tours. This is an art my grandmother had years and years ago, but she is now deceased (and sadly missed), and I would LOVE to learn this art again. I am a complete beginner in this craft field and don't know a thing about it. I would like to begin learning to make rag rugs with any fabric strips I have around the house, or the art of making rag rugs from plastic bags. (I saw this demonstrated on a television show once, but it was long ago, and though I do remember the program, I don't really remember everything about how they did it.)I do remember that they used old plastic grocery bags, cut them into strips, sort of braided the strips together and then formed them into an oval rug that was very washable and weatherproof. It was beautiful, too. What I don't know is how to hook one strip to another to continue the braid. I am very eager to learn and would appreciate any and all the help you can give me. Thank you so much. I am looking forward to hearing from you. Sincerely, Allyson

Hello Allyson, Glad you're enjoying the website. We hear all of the time from folks who wish they had learned to make rugs from their grandmother, so we try to fill the gap. Was there a particular type of rug that she made and you want to recreate? 

About the bread bag rugs, the strips were usually joined one to the next using the slit-and-loop method. Directions on how to do it are in the article called ways of joining fabric strips (but the methods work with bread bags too). To find it just click on the "articles" box. There is also an article giving directions for making braided rugs (written in 1932) that you might find helpful in getting started using either the bread bags or any fabrics you have on hand. 

Hope that helps, Diana 

Hello, My great grandmother used to make round rugs out of bread bags. I saw on your webpage that someone else posted a question about these rugs. You suggested that maybe it was crocheted with the breadbag cut in spirals. The rugs my great-grandmother used to make were really thick and knotty looking. Do you think she cut them or is there a way to make them by keeping the bag intact without cutting it down? I want to recreate the rugs she made but as I was her great grandson and boys didn't learn those sorts of things I have no way of learning. As far as I know no one in the family learned the secret. Any books or advice you can give to help me make these bread bag rugs? Take care, Michael

Hello Michael, How wonderful that you want to pick up the rugmaking tradition of your great-grandmother! So many of the rugs were "lost" in families, simply because the next generation wasn't interested (not just the boys)-- I constantly hear the same thing. Let me see if I can help with your bread bag tradition...

Yes, you can make *thick* bread bag rugs with crochet, simply by splitting the bag in half (cut down the sides so it unfolds. I don't know of anyone who used the bags whole (though maybe some did), since the whole bag would tend to trap air and that would be a real problem in the stitching. I'd suggest that you fold the cut bags in half lengthwise and then join the bags with the slit-and-loop method (see the article on joining fabric strips on the website). Roll the joined bags into a ball for crocheting. The slit-and-loop method adds to the 'knotty' texture you're speaking of and was probably what your great-grandmother used. 

Try that and let me know if you get close, or have any other questions.. Happy rugmaking! Diana

have you seen the rugs that people make where they braid the material and then wrap the braid in a circle and connect it with thread or fishing line to make a rug? I saw a post online about someone making rugs out of plastic bags that way and wondered if you thought people made the bread bags that way sometimes too....? 

What you're describing is the standard way of making a braided rug, where the braid is made and then coiled and laced together to form the rug. Yes, people did make bread bag rugs with braiding, though just not as often as they did with crocheting, since the braiding and lacing take longer. There were other ways people used bread bags for rugs too, like hooking, flat wrap, string crochet and knitted. The old time rug makers were extraordinarily creative in their abiltiy to recycle just about anything they had. Best, Diana 

My great Aunt made my father a braided rug made out of bread bags. It is very pretty and I would like to know how she did it. I have been looking for directions for over a year so if you could help me out I would be very thankful. Thank You Marjory

Hello Marjory, It was not often that folks braided rugs from bread bags. Most often those rugs were crocheted. The bags were cut in spirals to make long continuous strips about an inch wide, and then crocheted in round or oval shapes. It is possible your great Aunt used the same type of strips to braid with, and then some sort of heavy thread to lace the rug together. Hope that helps, Diana 
 
 

FOLDING STRIP & USING FOLDERS

Dear Rafter4:Thanks for such great info on rugmaking. This is my first time and I have purchased the booklet "Braidmastery" and a lacing tool. I want to make a cotton braided rag rug, but am confused about folding the strips. Do I need the braiding cones for cotton or are they just for wool? Should I purchase the Smooth Strip Folding Set for folding cotton strips?Thanks for your help!Sincerely,Jennifer 

Hi Jennifer, The old fashioned braiding cones are designed to be used with wools or *heavy* cotton fabrics (denim, corduroy, etc.) which are cut into 1-1/2 inch strips. For "regular" cotton fabrics of shirting weight or like calicos, you'll want to use the smooth strip folding set, and set the folds in the strips before you begin braiding. The light cottons just don't work in the braiding cones--they slip around too much. 

Our smooth strip folding set is sized to handle 1-1/2 inch strips of "regular" cottons, we also have the Deluxe set, which will handle cotton strips up to 3 inches wide, since we've had several requests from folks wanting to use wider strips. 

Anyway, the short answer to your question is that if you are using heavy cottons, the braiding cones work just fine. If lighter cottons, the smooth strip folding set is what will do the trick. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

I want to make simple braided or crocheted rugs from cotton scraps--rugs that can get wet, be washed in the washing machine, etc. I was thinking of the bulletin "chain braided rugs"? What else do I need--I have seen people using the cones that fold the fabric under--do these work well with cotton? Thanks for any help you can provide. Kari 

Hi Kari, To answer your last question first... the cones (braiding cones) that work so well with wool strip really don't work with most cotton since it slips around in the folder. They will work with heavy cottons like denim or corduroy. For the lighter cotton strips, they are folded first in bias tape folders (see the "smooth strip folding set"), then rolled into balls for use. The pre-folded strips really make a much nicer rug than trying to tuck in the raw edges as you work. 

You can make a lot of different rugs with cotton fabric strip, and they will all be machine washable, as long as the rug isn't too large for your washing machine. I usually suggest under 3 feet round if you want to use a home machine. The larger machines at laundramats can be used for larger cotton rugs. 

If you want to make a rug that can get wet/sit in water (like near a pool), I suggest you look for fabrics that are at least half polyester (or all synthetic) to minimize mildewing.

Now for the type of rug... Crocheted rugs are much quicker to make than braided (or chain braided rugs), since they are done in one step, instead of two. If you want a 'hefty' cotton rug, try the Bohemian Braid which is stouter than either, and goes together in one step. You can also do 'naalbinding' rugs, amish knot, flat wrap, etc., so the choice is really up to you. Hope that helps, Diana 

My question is regarding double folding the fabric strip. I have a bias tape maker that puts the first fold in the tape, with my iron. Then, I fold that strip in half and carefully roll balls so that the tape lies flat. This seems so tedious and takes so long to do. The folder I saw on your site looks like there is another tape maker behind the first one, is that true? Does that make both folds in one swell foop?

Yes, the two folders used together make a double-fold in a single step, and you'll find it isn't nearly so time consuming as the way you've been doing it. 

Also, do I have to be so careful about rolling the balls with the tape lying flat, or can I just roll it up any which way, even if the strip ends up twisted?

Roll it up any old way as long as you don't 'unfold' the strip when it is balled up. The strip gets twisted around when making the rug anyway, so don't make more work for yourself in making perfect balls. 

Thanks for the great books, I am really having fun, in spite of my small frustrations! You are right, it sure is different working with fabric strip instead of yarn! Another question, should I be washing my 100% cottons before I cut them into strips? All of mine have been washed already that are in my stash, but I intend to buy more over the next few days, there is a store nearby that has a whole room full of discount fabric, and I CAN wash it if I buy some, but would be nice not to, if you know what I mean.

Your 100% cottons will do just fine as they come, and the sizing that is in them actually makes them easier to handle in the folders. 

COMBINATION FOLDERS
I am thoroughly enjoying your site! It is very informative and I plan to order some tools to begin a braided rug this winter. I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer.

My mom gave me a couple of old, (and from what I can tell) out of print 1980's "Braid Craft" books by Shirley Botsford which included instructions for braiding not only rugs, but many other craft items. 

The fabric folding tool in the book looks like a cross between the cones shown on your site, and a bias tape maker similar to your "smooth strip folding set". It's not as round as the cone, nor as flat as the small strip folders. Is the only difference between the results how flat the braid will lie when completed? Do both types allow feeding of fabric strips without any pre-folding? 

Thank you for your consideration! Cheryl

Hi Cheryl, So glad you are enjoying the site. 

The 'braidcraft' sets and their folders are still being sold, and the booklets are still available from Distlefink Designs in New Jersey, I believe. You are right that the folders are a sort of a cross between the old-fashioned braiding cones and the folding sets for cottons. Unfortunately, as happens sometimes, in trying to make something that works with both, the folders ended up not working very well with either fabric. 

If you're using wool or any other heavy fabric, there is just nothing else that works like the old fashioned braiding cones to turn the edges of the fabric strip under securely (that's why they've been around so long). And with light cottons (like calicos) you have to have folders that are flat enough for the fabric to take and hold a crease, so there just isn't one single type of folder that will work for both types of fabric. 

When working with wools or heavy fabrics for braiding, the braiding cones are held right with the work, but with cottons, it is just tremendously easier to fold/crease the fabrics first, and then do the braiding. 

Hope that helps, Diana
 

CHOOSING WHICH RUG TO MAKE

I have access to large amounts of both medium and heavy weight cotton and would like to use it to make rugs. I have never done any rugmaking although I have a lot of experience with needlework, knitting and crocheting. Your web site is great but now I am more confused than ever as to which technique would be best to learn. I want a rug that will be functional (although not abused). Techniques that appealed to me in your tour (for appearance) were broomstick, chain braid, anchored loop, hook braided and kitchen table but I was originally looking for information on crocheting rugs which still appeals to me. Secondary factors in my decision would be size possible and, of course, time needed. If you could advise me on which techniques would fit my needs then I could order instructions and try them out! Thank you.

Good morning, You are right that there are a *lot* of rug methods to choose from, and with all of your textile experience you shouldn't have any problem with any of the techniques, so that doesn't help to narrow things down either. For the medium weight fabrics, I'd recommend crochet/fabric tapestry, knitted, broomstick, and chain braid. The anchored loop and hook braided actually work the best with fairly light cottons (like a calico). For the heavy cottons, the kitchen table rugs, chain braid. And for rugs using both, the broomstick rugs can be made with fabrics of two different weights. 

There really isn't a size limitation on any of the techniques, but if you want to wash the rugs in a home washing machine, to keep them to 3 feet or less. 

As for the time needed, the ones you'll make the quickest would be the techniques that you are already familiar with (crochet/knit). Of the others you list, the quickest would be the chain braid and kitchen table rugs. Longest would be anchored loop and hook braided. Hope that helps, Diana

WITH TWO-INCH STRIPS
i have a very large quantity of yardage that i have cut into 2 inch strips. i want to make a round rag rug. what method would you suggest? any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you. Darlene in Washington state.

Hi Darlene, There are so many ways you could use your strips, a lot will depend on what sort of rug you want to end up with and the kind of hand work you like. If your strips are already sewn together, there are the crocheted, modern bohemian braid, chain braids etc. The bohemian will make a stiff stout rug, and the others are a bit softer. If the strips aren't already joined, the flat wrap will make a very heavy rug or the traditional bohemian braid also has a lot of body. Short strips are also used for the traditional toothbrush (naalbinding) rugs which are of a softer texture. Hope that helps, Diana

OVERSTITCHED RUG
I have seen a rug before that I will describe like this: It was made from a large piping, covered with a decorator fabric. It was then coiled and sewn into a rug. What kind of rug is this, and do you know where I might have one made? Thank you for your help. Debbie 

Hi Debbie, The rug you saw is a type of overstitched rug. A few years ago, a company marketed the cord as a craft item for making rugs and baskets, but I don't recall the name of the product. Not too long ago I was in a quilt shop that had the cording and some baskets on display, so my best suggestion would be to check your local quilt and/or craft shops and they might be able to put you in touch with someone who is making the rugs. Local craft fairs would also be a likely place for a contact. 

Hope that helps, Diana

RUGS TO MAKE WITH CHILDREN

My two daughters (aged 14 and 12) are planning to make rag rugs this year. They have never done it before. Actually, our whole family is quite uninformed on the subject. We've perused your lovely website, but still wonder what would be best for them. I did read an answer you gave to another mom whose daughter wanted to start such a project, but I'd like to know if any of your kits would be "doable" for them, rather than making one from strips of sheets. Also, is most of the work done by hand? Thank you! Linda

Hi Linda, As for your daughter's rug making project, yes, I think they are old enough to handle many different types of rugs, and the kits would be a good starting place for them. The only technique I wouldn't recommend for them at this point is the Bohemian Braid, since it is a bit more complex, and might frustrate them (which we don't want to do!) 

I would recommend any of the crochet kits, especially if you know the basics (single crochet) and can supervise, or the shirring kits. The patched rug kit would also let them make their own shapes and stitch them for sewing experience, and will go the quickest. The 50 yard package of cotton braiding strips is especially designed for youngsters to learn to braid (see the patterns for the dog leash and the placemat on the website), and the book 5-016 Multi-strand braids. They can use the braiding patterns for belts, handles, hatbands, etc, which are quickly done and kids love doing them.

Hope that helps, Diana 

do you offer a book that covers the Strung, Knotted and sewn Shag rugs, and maybe even the broomstick? Basicaly what I'm looking for is some easy to learn techniques for beginners, my 13 year old daughter and I, we neither crochet nor knit. Francine

Hi Francine, We do have a bulletin on the Knotted shag rugs, which is a big favorite with the younger set--they do the knotting and Mom helps with sewing the long knotted sections into a shaggy rug. The broomstick rugs are a bit more complicated, and I really wouldn't recommend them as a joint project at this age. There are a couple of other ones that would work though, the kitchen table rugs which are woven, go together quickly and make a good project working together, and the flat wrap rugs bulletin which covers basket making, since the technique is quite simple but makes very substantial baskets. The basket projects are done fast enough to keep the interest of the youngsters. Hope that helps, Diana 

Hello! I really enjoyed your website. We are a homeschooling family interested in handicrafts. I am wondering if making rag rugs would be something that elementary aged children could learn to do. Do you have any information?

Thank you for your time, Lily

Hi Lily, Children were often involved in rug making, and there are several methods that even very young children can participate in. With the very young ones, there is usually part that they do and they part that a grownup does to finish the rug. The method that I have found is the most popular with young ones, even at kindergarten age, is the 2-string method of the knotted shag. The kids are fascinated with the knots, and they make long strings of them, and then an adult makes sure the knots are snug on the string, and sews the strings side by side to make the rug. Because the knotted shag uses such small pieces of fabric, they can recycle their own clothes as well! 

Also, on the website is a braiding project for kids which introduces them to a 4-strand braid to make a dog leash (or belt/handle). You might start them out with that. 

There are other types of rugs which can be done as a family project as well. If there is a particular method you're interested in, just let me know, and I'll be able to tell you if it is suited for a kid's project. (It also would help to know the ages/skill levels you're working at with them.)

Hope that helps, Diana

RUGS FROM ROVING

Hi there, I have a lot of sheep's wool that I had processed into thick roving for rug braiding...however, I do not know how to braid rugs. My Mother-in-law braids beautiful rugs with wool fabric. She taught me how to braid with fabric but I can not braid the wool roving... I've tried but the wool sticks together and I get frustrated. My friend told me about rag rugs and thought that maybe I could kind of weave the thick roving. I don't own a loom... is there any way I can make a loom or frame inexpensively. If so, how do I make one? Also do you have any other suggestions on what else I can do with the roving? Keep in mind that I'm not all that gifted in artistic creativity.... I'll appreciate any ideas or suggestions you may have. Thanks, Sharon

Dear Sharon, The problem you've got with the roving is the technique you're trying to use (regular braiding) just isn't suited to the roving. But don't give up on it! There are two methods for making rugs with roving like you have that will work very well. If you want a soft-ish rug, try the two strand chain braid. Unlike regular braiding you use continuous strands to make the braids (no splicing), and because you don't have to cross over & under, the roving won't stick to itself. The other method which I would highly recommend is the "Modern Bohemian Braid". It is also made of a continuous strand, and makes up with a lot of body. This is the one if you want a rug of about the same weight as the braided rugs your Mother-in-law makes. 

While you can weave with roving as the weft, it really works best on a regular loom, so there isn't a frame weaving method that is a good substitute. Another thing you can do with roving is to combine it with a 'rag' strip, and work the two together as if they were a single strand, in many types of rag rugs such as crocheted rugs, knitted rugs, etc. You *can* get nice rugs from your roving! Best, Diana 

Hi Diana, In your advice about rovings, you mentioned "Modern Bohemian Braid". How is that done? All my sheep have black wool. What are the problems and pleasures of having an all black rug. Can a roving rug be felted? How can you tell before a project, how much roving you need? Thank you for the time you spend with me and others. You are a great teacher. Regards, nbs

Hi Niki, The Modern Bohemian Braid is a series of loops laced into loops, and really ought to be classified as one of the chain braids, but because it so closely resembles the traditional Bohemian Braid in appearance, it shows up on the Rug Tour with the toothbrush rugs. Your black sheep's wool should do fine for a rug. The only problems with black rugs is that they tend to show all of the light colored lint, dust or pet hairs, but if you can get some light colored (especially gray) wool to work into the roving in small flecks that problem will be minimized. Yes, you can felt a roving rug which would make it extra sturdy. 

As for how much roving you'd need for a project, the only good way to know is to make a small sample up and calculate from there. There are so many variables (size of roving, size of tool, technique and personal touch) that there isn't really any good general guideline that you can rely on. Glad you're enjoying the website. Hope that helps, Diana 

Hello , I just ordered a book from you on braided rugs and now have a question for you . I saw on your rug tour that someone asked a question about using wool roving to braid rugs with , you suggested the modern bohemian braid to do it with , this really interests me as I raise long wool sheep and also am not very interested in the sewing part of putting braided rugs together . Could you please just tell me a little about this process so I can decide which way to go before ordering some more books and supplies? What size hook and what size roving works the best do you think for these type rugs? I would really appreciate it . Thank you for your time . Drin

Good morning Drin, I've heard from quite a number of gals with their own sheep/wool who have wondered what sort of rug could be made with the roving, and have recommended the "modern" bohemian braid to each one and they have been quite happy with the results. The mbb rugs are done in a unit working with interlaced loops, so there is no sewing of the braids. Because the technique is so 'structural' the rugs have the heft and body of a braided wool rug, even though the roving itself is soft and pliable. The mbb really isn't like anything else in being able to generate so much body in the rugs. 

Because the technique is so different from anything else, it is difficult to describe (which is why there are so many line drawings of each step in the book). I only have one size roving (about 3/8") around the house, so that is what I have used, both by itself and in combination with other yarns. I used the N with that size, and the rugs are a nice weight for me. Another gal I've corresponded with has used 3/4" roving and she really likes the heavy weight it made up, but was some surprised at how much wool went into a single rug. So I really can't say that one size works better than another--- it's really a matter of how thick and heavy you want the rug to be. 

Hope that helps, Diana 

Hi Diana, I am working on braiding wool roving into a braided rug so if you know of any tips that could help me along I would appreciate it:-) Drin 
Hi Drin, With the roving rug that you're braiding, the only thing you really need to watch is where you need to add more length to keep braiding. Make sure that the roving is overlapped and work the two pieces with your fingers to make sure that they stick to each other. It also helps to pull apart the roving (not cut it) so that the ends are a little tapered. 

One other trick that works with all sorts of braiding, is to wind the length of cording around your hand loosely, and secure the roll with a rubber band. Then when you need more length, just unroll some, and reband the rest. It helps keep the ends from tangling (and with roving from sticking together), and also you can use longer pieces that way so you don't have to splice in as often. Hope that helps, Diana 

CUTTING T-SHIRTS & BRAIDING WITH DENIM
I can no longer find the directions for cutting old T shirts into strips to make braided rugs. Can you help? Also, my chosen fabric for braided rugs is old jeans. When I tried the four-strand braid for a dog leash, it seemed too heavy. I suspect using any more than 4 strands of jeans strips for any style rug would be too heavy and hard to manage. True? Thanks for your help. Barbara

Hi Barbara, T-shirts and all single knits are cut in the direction of the 'curl'--usually across the grain, so that when the strip is given a tug it curls up into a neat little tube. With T-shirts you can cut a spiral around the shirt for a continuous strip, but the seams end up on the outside of the curl usually. For a braided rug, t shirts should be cut 2 to 3 inches wide (wider if pretty well worn). 

Not true (about multiple strand braids with denim). The dog leash is made with the 4 strand standard braid, which is used to make a heavier braid from lighter fabrics. With heavy fabrics to start with, the flat braids are used (they get wider with each strand so that the weight and thickness of the braid itself doesn't increase). So a 4 strand flat braid will work fine with your old jeans. 

Hope that helps, Diana 

WHAT IS THE "RAGS TO RUGS" RUG?
Dear Diana, In the back of the Bohemian Braid book is a picture of a rug that says RAGS TO RUGS. Is it a cross stitch rug? I was trying to figure out how it was made. Thanks for any information, Debbie

Dear Debbie, No, that rug is actually a fabric tapestry rug that I made for display in one of our retail rug shops, probably in about 1984 or a little earlier. It was made with ¾-inch unfolded strip in a deep charcoal gray and ivory cotton, to accent the graphics in the design. It does show some of the possibilities in the more advanced sort of fabric tapestry designs. Best, Diana 

ESTIMATING FABRICS FOR A LARGE CROCHETED RUG
I never start a project out on a small scale, I always go large... I want to single crochet a rectangular rug (back and forth) to measure 2' x 9'. It will be a runner for a hallway. I'm interested in earth tones- blues, purples, greens, rusts, yellows. Can you help me figure out how much I would need and how much it would cost? Thanks for all the great information you offer on your web sight.Kim 
Dear Kim, I can understand your wanting to go big at the first crack, but I still recommend you make a small practice piece before you get going on the big rug. It will help you to get the feel of working with fabric strip, which does handle differently than yarns. 

For the back-and-forth type of crochet, I really don't suggest our pre-folded strip. It is just too heavy at 1-1/2 inches wide, and the rows are too prominent. It just doesn't make a nice rug in the back-and-forth type of patterns. Instead I suggest you use unfolded strip at about 3/4 to 1 inch wide. The rug will lie smoother and have a much more even surface.

A 2' X 9' rug has 18 square feet and you'll need 1.5 to 2 yards of cotton fabric per square foot. That means you'll need 27 to 36 yards of fabric.... Don't panic. I'm going to refer you to the Waldmans at 'Raggedy Rugs' (See Links). They sell fabric by the pound and one pound is approximately equal to 4 yards of fabric. It is by far the most economical way to go, since for a rug the size you want, you'll need 8 to 9 pounds, instead of massive yardages. (If I was doing the rug I'd get 10 to 12 pounds, so I had flexibility in the color placement.) They also have a lot of photos on their website so you can see the fabrics--just remember that the prints will 'disappear' in the rugs so only work on the colors you're looking for. The only catch is that you'll need to cut and join the strips yourself. Hope that helps... holler if you have any more questions. Happy rugmaking! Diana 
 

CUTTING MACHINES FOR RUGMAKING
Greetings. I'm interested in trying out rag rug hooking and found your website. Before I send an order I'd like to know if you've heard of a machine that can speed up the rag cutting process. I saw a such a device on a TV show segment, but can't seem to find out about it. Thanks. Susan 
Dear Susan, There are rag "slitters" (fixed razor blades) which really don't work well, but are cheap ($12 or so). The "real" cutters are a very nice piece of machinery called Fraser cutters, made by the Harry M. Fraser Co. (I've used one for years and they are wonderful.) They are however expensive, running $125 or thereabouts these days. I don't recommend that you get one until you really know that you want to take up rug hooking seriously. In the meantime a rotary cutter, with a good ruler made for cutting on the mats works fine. It isn't as precise in the very narrow strips, but will get you started. You can find the Fraser company on the links we have on the website. Hope that helps, Diana 

SPLICING BRAID LACING THREAD
I love your site, I just found it by accident and I will be spending alot of time there! I have a wonderful elderly neighbor who has been teaching me to braid wool rugs. We have done all the striping, planning our color scheme, sewing the strips together and have braided a large "rope". Our problem is that she has forgotten how to splice the hollow carpet thread so you don't have a seam. Do you have any information on this? 
Hello, The thread used for lacing is usually used as a loop (tie a double length together, and thread the lacing needle or braid lacer with the doubled length). When you want to add more thread, make another loop, and slip it through the old loop and itself to make the next length. Hope that helps, Diana 

REVERSIBLE RUGS WITH DENIM
Greetings, I have only hooked a wall hanging and have 30 years of sewing experience. I am interested in a 5' x 8' square reversible denim rug. What would you recommend? Fran Hello Fran, I started thinking about all of the reversible rugs you can make with denim, and decided that it wasn't such a simple question after all. But since you have 30 years sewing experience, I think the one I would recommend is a "kitchen table" rug. All of the others of that size would be extremely heavy, and would take you so long that it really wouldn't be a good way to start. The kitchen table rug pictured on the website is made with old jeans, but for a 5 X 8 rug, you'd probably want to buy new denim to go at least one direction (probably the length of the rug). There's info in the bulletin to figure the yardage you'd need. 

Also, I'm afraid you wouldn't be able to work on the kitchen table unless you have a very large one, but the construction is quite simple, and with your sewing experience, you could put decorative reinforcements in some of the squares to spruce it up. That would be my first recommendation. The next best I think, would be a regular braided rug, since denim makes very nice braided rugs, and a braided rug would be quite a bit heavier and more durable in case the place you want to put it is heavily travelled.

Hope that helps, Diana 

RUGS FROM OLD NYLON STOCKINGS
Hello, good rug folk! How FUN to find your Web site. I have spent quite a long time reading through your material and have found it delightful. Many years ago I saw a braided rug made of old nylons and panty hose. It was the most beautiful shades of beige's and browns and looked like a lot of thought had gone into it. My grandmother passed away three years ago and, while sorting through her things, I discovered boxes full of NEW nylons and bags of used cotton stockings (the really old fashioned kind). My Nana wore a panty girdle every day of her life and she liked those stockings held up with garters. She never would wear a pair of panty hose. I immediately thought of that rug I had wanted to make all those years ago, but have been unable to find any source of information for doing so. Can you advise if it's worth the time to make a rug out of nylons/panty hose and what type of rug would be best suited for such. After going through your rug tour, I think I like the braided-in affect. So, what do you think? This would be a "first" rug for me. I'm willing to spend the time. In fact, I have been looking for a hobby. I have recently started a business in my home and find I have the time to spend on "making" something and I would like it to be unusual. Thanks for any advice you can offer! I need all I can get! Carol in Alaska 

Hi Carol, So glad you enjoyed the web site. As for rugs with stockings, the old ones are wonderful--we have several in the family that date from the 30's and they are still going strong. However, before we get to discussing rugs, let me say that the new stockings you found are worth too much money now to use for a rug. Particularly if they are still in the box, they are worth a pretty penny. If you aren't familiar with ebay, take a look at it, since things like that sell for good prices there. If you don't want to do that, at least find an antique dealer to give you a price on them before you cut them for rugs. 

Now, onto the rugs. Most of the old rugs made from stockings were either crocheted or braided (regular 3-strand standard braids), but they can be used for almost any type of rug other than the frame braids or the strung shags. If you're looking for something really unusual, think about the bohemian braid or the knitted rugs, since very few people do those. To prepare the stockings for rugmaking, you'll need to cut them into strips. Cut in a spiral, starting at the top a little more than an inch wide, so that you get a single long strip from each stocking. When cut like that, if you tug a bit on the strip, it will curl up into a neat little tube, and it's all set to start working with. 

Hope that helps, Diana 

A SHAG MAT FROM DENIM JEANS
I have a stack of old denim jeans, and although I have never made a rug of any type, I saw a small rug about 24" X 36" made with old denim, and I would like to make one - it looked like a shag rug of some sort. Can you provide information on directions, supplies and/on how I should proceed from here. Thanks for your assistance, Carol

Hi Carol, While there are lots of ways to make a shaggy rug, many of them are difficult with denim. The one most suited to old jeans is the knotted shag, since it is made with smallish strips (3/4 inch wide, cut on the bias, and as long as you want the shags to be when the strips are folded). You'll need stout crochet thread or heavy cotton thread to make the base of the rug. Your old jeans will make a really nice looking rug since you'll have so many shades of blue. Hope that helps, Diana 

MAKING RUGS WITH T-SHIRTS 
You all have a beautiful and informative site. ( I call it the sexy rag rug site - which translates into : I want it all ) I have been threatening for years to make rag rugs. To this end I have been collecting (don't groan) cotton T-shirts. I can't help it. I love cotton and I'm not much of a dresser. My question is which would be the best rug to make with T-shirts? Thank you for any direction that you may provide. Ann 

Dear Ann, I won't groan... After all, rag rugs developed when women needed to make rugs from whatever they had on hand. Times have changed and T-shirt knits are what folks have on hand these days. In experimenting with them, I've found they have some very nice characteristics which make them a "friendly" material for beginners (they will curl up into neat little tubes if they are cut the right way-- which saves having to fold the strips). 

Anyway, the techniques I'd recommend for T-shirt knits are knitted rugs, "Hook-braided" (the 2-strand attached chain braid), tambour rugs, and broomstick rug. T-shirt knits also work for crocheted rugs, braided rugs, and string crochet (and some others), but I just don't think the rugs make up as nicely. I'm glad you're enjoying the website! Happy rugmaking! Diana 

WEAVING ON A PEGGED FRAME 
Hello, I have come across a frame type loom at an auction. It is rectangular, oak, 4ftX3ft and has about 3/4" pegs, all the way around it. I am hoping you can tell me what type of object this is. I have no experience with weaving and think it would be wonderful to learn and present it to my students. I hope to hear from you soon! Your site is fantastic! What would be the easiest rug for my 5-6th grade class to learn, along with the teacher? Thanks, Margo

Hi Margo, Lucky you! What you have is an old fashioned "pegged frame" for making hand woven rugs. There are several methods you can use it for, using just the pegs at opposite ends or the ones on all sides. It can also be used for diagonal weaves when you get a bit of experience. The simplest weaving is easy on the frame. You warp (string it for weaving) the frame by winding rag strip back and forth on the pegs at opposite ends, then weave back and forth through them. You don't have to use the pegs at the sides, just have strips long enough to stick out on both sides. Start your weaving in the center, and work toward the ends. 

As for your students, the rug method I recommend most for young folks is the knotted shag, two-string method. They pick it up very quickly, have a ball, and can work in a lot of groups, each making a strip of knots which you then stitch together to make a 'community' project rug. The knotted shags can also be made with the "frame" method, which your frame will work on (there is a diagram in the bulletin showing you how to warp (string) the frame. Hope that helps, Diana 

THE SLIT METHOD OF JOINING STRIPS 
I have just started making rag rugs, I read about connecting rag strips by the snip and slip method. Can you explain this to me please. Or the best way of connecting. I have been stitching the ends together. Thanks Barbara

Hi Barbara, The snipping method is an old way of doing it, but it leaves little bumps in the rug-- this is how you do it. Cut a slot *near* the end of each strip (the one ending and the one you want to add on, which I'll call the 'new' strip). Slide the slotted end of the 'new' strip through the slot in the 'old' strip. Lace the end of the 'new' strip into the slot of the 'new' strip, and pull up the slack. That's all there is to it. It is quick which is why some people like it. 

However, the *best* way to join strips, without leaving a 'bump' is the bias-joint. Lay the two ends of the strips together at a right angle (90-degrees). Sew diagonally across from the two corners which are not part of the 'point'. Clip off the excess of the corner about 1/4 inch from the seam. When you open the strips out, the seam will run diagonally across the strip, spreading the bulk. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

MAKING A SHAGGY COTTON RUG
(Nancy sent a letter with photos of a 4' X 6' shaggy cotton rug, inquiring what sort of rug it was, how long it would take to make, and how much it would cost to make.) 

Hello Nancy, You letter with rug making questions arrived. The photo could be many different sorts of rugs. There are several techniques that will create a shaggy surface (hooked, prodded, knotted shags, sewn shags, shag crochet, shag knit, strung shags, etc.) The length of the strips will let you have any length shag you want in any of these rugs. And though cotton strips are most often used (either from old clothing or new yard goods) you can make shaggy rugs from nearly any type of fabric. 

If you do hooking or prodding to make the rugs, you'll want to get some good Scottish burlap for the backing, and yes, you can make them in smaller sections and join them together. The only tool you'll need is a good rug hook. 

It's hard to estimate cost on rugs like these. So much depends on where you buy the fabric. (You might watch for sales on flat sheets, they are often an excellent bargain on good quality fabric.) It's also hard to say how long it would take you to finish. If you work at it steadily in the evenings (and rugs make good winding-down work) you should be able to finish 1 rug this winter I would think. Hope that helps, Happy Rugmaking, Diana

OTHER FABRICS FOR HOOKED RUGS 
Hi - I have ordered some info on rug hooking from you & got it & started! - the anchor hooking is great & I want to try more traditional hooking - but because I live in the Florida Keys (south of Miami) there isn't much wool to be found. I have lots of cotton fabric & old sheets - but when cutting into the 1/8 inch strips, on the straight grain, for traditional hooking, the fabric frays & looks bad. Should I cut on the bias to eliminate the fraying? Or should cotton not get used for traditional hooking? Thanks for you response, Patti 

Hello Patti, Lots of different fabrics can be used for traditional hooking with wonderful effects. Woven cottons *should* be cut on the bias, but they also should be cut not less than 1/4 inch wide since the narrower strips will pull back out too easily. There are other materials which you also can try. Novelty fabrics (rayon, nylons, metallics) make wonderful hooking material, but would be mostly for rugs which are used as wall hangings. For great useful rugs (especially where you live) try t-shirt knit cottons (or cotton blends). Cut them about 1/4 inch (or a bit wider), so that they curl into a neat little tube. Make some test cuts along the length of the fabric, and across the fabric to see which direction curls the best. If you can get yard goods in white or a natural color, and wash it, the 100% cotton knits will take up dye very nicely so you can get just the colors you want too. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

RUGS FROM OLD TOWELS 
Hi. I have a lot of old terry cloth towels. I was wondering if they could be used to make a braided rug. Kay 

Hi Kay, I wouldn't really recommend terry towels for a braided rug... It could be done, but they'd be a real pain to handle for a good braid. Instead I'd suggest you look at the string crochet. With that technique the towels would make a terrific bathmat. Hope that helps, Diana 

PAINTED ON RUG BACKING
Hi, I would like to know if you sell latex backing that can be 'painted' on the back of a rug to make it non-slip? I have heard of this but have not been able to find it. Thanks for any information you can send. Jean

Dear Jean, No, we don't sell it, and really suggest you don't use it on anything except a discount store rug which doesn't have lasting value. It can cause permanent damage to handmade rugs. What we do recommend is an expanded rubber mat, which works well to keep rugs in place, but isn't permanently attached. These are available from the Harry M. Fraser Co. (see links). Hope that helps, Diana 

IDENTIFYING SOME RUGS 
I was recently at a local historical site and was fascinated by the rug-making I saw there. One of the styles I recognize on one of your web pages as a frame woven rug. The other was a type of toothbrush rug. She used a classic buttonhole stitch with her rag laced through the toothbrush hole. Is this rug mentioned on your site, and if so, what type of toothbrush rug is it? Thank you, Jean 

Hi Jean, The rug you saw was an "Amish Knot" rug, which uses the toothbrush (or a lacing needle) with the buttonhole (aka blanket) stitch. It is not "technically" a toothbrush rug, and much simpler in construction. We do have a bulletin on the Amish Knot. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

BACKING FOR A CROCHETED YARN RUG 
Dear Diana I have just completed a crocheted large rectangular rug. It is crocheted with regular crochet yarn. Can you tell me what kind of backing would be best on this type of rug and what kind of spray would be best to put on the top to make it stain and dirt resistant. Thank you so much for your help. Cheryl 

Hi Cheryl, Before you use the rug, get a good "Scotch Guard" type of spray and follow the directions for it on both sides of the rug. I don't usually recommend a backing on crocheted rugs, since the dirt falls through the holes, and the backing will hold onto it. If you want a bit of stiffening so it doesn't bunch up and skitter around, here's what you can do. Get a piece of heavy canvas or denim, and hem it so that it is about an inch smaller all around than your rug. Buy a roll of velcro tape, and using only the 'hook' piece (not the fuzzy), put 2" pieces all over the backing fabric. The "hook" tape will hold onto the yarn, but will still let the rug peel off for shaking, turning over, etc. Hope that helps, Diana 

HELP FOR SORE HANDS
What a great site! I will tell everyone. I spent hours taking your tour. I do a lot of rug hooking and braiding. When I hook, my hands and wrists get very sore and I assume I am doing something wrong. Anything for exact correct hand positions or ideas for this problem? I can't stop, but I am afraid I will have to if this keeps up. Thanks again, Lisa 

Dear Lisa, So glad you enjoyed the tour on our site! It is great to hear from folks that appreciate the traditional rugs. About your hands and wrists, it could be a couple of different problems. Most likely if you've been hooking for awhile you've found a hand position that works for you, and you don't change it. That means that your wrist and hand are going through a very limited motion over and over again. To counter this, try switching back and forth from an overhand to underhand grip for a short while. It is awkward at first, but will let your muscles get away from the repetition for a bit. Then go back to your regular grip.

I've had the same problem when I've been making only one type of rug consistently--usually when I'm writing about that particular one--and have found that switching back and forth between two different techniques takes care of the problem. Another old trick is to never hook when your hands are cold. That doesn't mean you have to quit during the winter! Take a pair of glove liners (cotton knit liners for work gloves are best), and clip the fingertips about an inch from the end. Fold the end of each glove-finger back, and use them as fingerless gloves. They keep your hands warm and don't get in the way of working. Happy Rugmaking, Diana 

MORE SORE MUSCLES
I haven't started rug hooking yet but I do latch hook. My left upper arm gets so sore. What do I need to do to alleviate the pressure as I'm hooking? Somehow I'm keeping it tense as I tighten the yarn. Any suggestions are deeply appreciated!! Joyce 
Hi Joyce, What you've got going is that the work is too low--- notice that your neck is bent? The easiest fix to try is to put a thick pillow on your lap, and put the rug you're working on atop it. See if that helps....

SELLING YOUR RUGS
Q. The first Rolling Wheel I made was for a housewarming gift and it got rave reviews and requests from other guests. The copyright statement in the front of your book just mentions infringement upon the book itself. May I sell rugs made from your charts or is that covered by the copyright statement also?

A. You absolutely *can sell* any rug you make from my designs and patterns! If you do, I'd appreciate it if you let the people know what the 'right' name of the pattern is to minimize confusion. What the copyright statement refers to is the designs and patterns themselves belong to me (someone can't copy them and put out their own book with my patterns in it), but it has nothing to do with you being able to make and sell any rugs you want to... so go right ahead. The fabric tapestry rugs will go very well for you-- people love them! 

APPROPRIATE FABRICS FOR RUGS

Hi,
My husband is an upholsterer, and I'm looking for something to do with the mounds of fabric scraps we collect. After this week's work I have an 8" wide, 50yard long piece of denim, and I'm thinking of trying braiding. Can you use fabric this heavy, and if so, what sort of width would I cut it in, and what type of braid would be best? Thank you for the nice web page! (you may print my address) Carol Dean >Ottoman@seanet.com 

Dear Carol, 
Lots of different upholstery fabrics work fine for rugs (only the ones with a bonded backing don't). In fact, I've found that the scotch guarding on many of the cotton fabrics make the rugs stand up better where they get lots of spills (in a kitchen or dining room, for example). 

With the heavy denims you can braid very nice rugs. Cut the strips 1-1/2 inches wide on the straight grain of the fabric. Double fold the strips to hide the raw edges. I've also used the heavy denims for chain braided rugs and crocheted rugs, but you have to wash them first to remove the sizing or the strips are too stiff to work easily. Happy rugmaking! Diana
 

MAKING RAG BALLS

Hi my name is Lisa I have a question. There is such a thing called rag balls correct?? I think I have seen them in an antique store in a basket. You just put a bunch of these balls in a basket and sit them by your couch or something. Do you know how to make these? Or know of any sites on the web?? I typed in rag balls but things came up I didn't want. LOL Please write back thanks so much 
Dear Lisa, If all you want is to have some rag balls sitting around for decoration, they are really easy to make. Cut or tear your fabric into 1" to 1-1/2" strips, and roll them up into balls, making sure to tuck the ends in. If you're looking to make rugs with them, the strips are sewn together end to end before rolling. That's all there is to it! Best, Diana

RUGS MEN LIKE 

I own a spinning, knitting and crochet studio. My husband has shown interest in learning how to make rag rugs. Could you recommend what is the best way for him to learn (since he wants to learn, this is of course going to mean that I'm going to have to get involved). What equipment would he need, what is the best book for a beginner? Thanks 
Hi Leslie, I've noticed a few things over the years about men and the types of rugs that they like. First, the procedure for the rug shouldn't be too 'fussy' with a lot of decisions to make (that lets out hooked rugs, shirred rugs, etc. where a person is always choosing a new color). Second, they like a 'real' tool in their hands, with a respectable heft, or a type of rug that just lets them use their fingers instead of a tool. Third, they like a rug that shows progress quickly and ends up as a 'real' rug (eg. has some weight and body). 

Of course, there are always exceptions, and I know of one fellow who makes terrific knitted rag rugs and enjoys it. 

But (short of buying a loom--- a 'real' tool), I'd suggest that you try to start him off with either the "Anchored Loop" (locker hooking), since the procedure is straight forward and the tool is solid steel, and if he doesn't like it, you have wool yarns & roving to use with it. Or, the Bohemian Braid which makes up into a *very* solid and stiff rug.Good luck, Diana 

HINTS FOR A NEW RUG TEACHER

I'm going to be teaching a locker hooking class for the first time next month, do you have any hints or help for a new teacher? 
As for advice for new teachers-- well I'm always full of advice-- sometimes more than is needed! I've found out that people wanting classes are almost always anxious to get their hands on the rug quickly, so it pays to have everything ready for that at the first class. With something like locker hooking, I'd have some small canvases (about 6" square when finished), all hemmed and ready, along with hooks and rug strip so that everyone can 'play' with the technique right at the start, and have something to take home and play some more with. Then, take them through the preparation steps thoroughly with a small rug-size canvas for the second session. They will also come back to the second class full of questions which makes teaching easier-- at least for me since I like to yak! Best, Diana 

MYSTERY RUGS

While at a craft show this weekend my mother and I began discussing the braided "rag" rugs my paternal grandmother used to make. Since she died while I was in college (and such things as quilting and rug making were not foremost in my mind) I cannot learn this craft from her. I am wondering if you can recommend a book with which I could begin to learn. The rugs I remember were rectangular in shape with self fringe on the ends and looked "woven" but were done by hand and of cotton type material (not wool). 

Dear Melanie, 
The rugs your grandmother used to make could be one of three types: broomstick (do you remember her using a long tool?); needlewoven (do you remember her using a frame of some sort?); or string crochet (was there a smallish crochet hook involved?) All of these types will make rectangular rugs with fringed ends as you describe. You might take another look at our "Rag Rugs Tour" to see if any of the pictures of these types ring a bell with you. We have books that cover the broomstick and string crochet, but the needlewoven one is still in process. 

Hope this helps. Diana.---------- 

MEMORY RUGS FROM CHILDREN'S CLOTHES 

I am so very glad to have found your web site. I have been looking for information on rag rugs for almost a year. My husband suggest the internet and here you are. I would like to use scraps of fabric from my children's clothing (from when they were younger) to make each one of the a small rug. The materials consist of denim, polyester and of course cotton receiving blankets. Is this possible? I would like to order your book "Crocheted and Tapestry Rugs". Would this book explain materials and supplies that I will need? One more!! Is there a particular method or scissors I should use to cut these materials. Thank you for having such patience with a city girl novice. 
Dear Judy, 
I love to hear from people who are just getting started with rugmaking, and your idea for 'memory' rugs from your kids clothes is lovely. Let me make a suggestion however, crocheted and fabric tapestry rugs take a lot of material, and cutting, sewing and folding the strips to make a rug out of little one's pants and shirts would take forever. If you want to make one of these rugs, work with the receiving blankets. 

I have a couple of alternate suggestions: A wagon wheel rug takes less fabric and will let you see the fabrics (take a look at the "Rugmaker's Bulletins" for instructions). You could use all of the different fabrics you have mixed together in the same rug, and have a larger rug for each of your babes. The other type of rug to consider is a traditional shirred rug (all you need is a needle and stout thread). These are thicker rugs and go together pretty quickly. The advantage with these rugs is that you don't have to sew the fabric strips end to end to make a long strip. You can cut short strips from a little shirt and then just shir it right onto the rug. (Depending on how old your children are, they could even help with this type of rug. I've had 8 year olds help with shirring.) 

You don't need any particular special equipment to cut strips for rugs, just some good sharp scissors. For years I've used a pair of Fiskars (they have a handy little sharpener they sell for their scissors so you can always keep a good edge for cutting). A rotary cutter and mat also work very nicely. The commercial strip cutters are good but the only ones that really work are quite expensive (over $100) so I don't suggest that beginners rush out to buy them. 
Happy Rugmaking! 
DBG ---------

What is the significance of the name "Rafter-four"?

Actually the "Rafter-four" is the family cattle brand, though we aren't in the cattle ranching business any more. The brand itself is a pointy-top number four with an inverted V on top. 

RUGS ON INTERNET AUCTIONS
I was looking on ebay today at rag rugs, saw a few that look like they are crocheted, and are going for more than I think they look like they are worth. It is hard to tell, but to me it looks like they are made loosely and are not even. They also look like the strip isn't double folded. Har dee har - I seem to be turning into a rag rug snob! I wonder if that is a good market for my rugs? I was looking there to "assess" my marketing strategy.

Don't worry about ebay--- I occasionally look in there and see wonderful rugs going for pennies, and poorly made rugs going for good prices. There is just no accounting for it, other than ignorance of what a good rug is. Having retailed rugs, and sold them through galleries, decorators, etc., I can say that once people see your rugs they won't be willing to settle for the second rate. Quality tells (though one guy did wander into one of our shops once, looked around and told his wife "They have a machine in the back room that makes those.")

Have fun, Diana 

FINISHING A CARPET EDGE
Hello, I was wondering if you could tell me how and what to use on a piece of carpet to finish the edges so I could use it as an area rug, Thank You, Linda

Hi Linda, Rug binding is the usual thing that is sewn around a carpet edge to make it into a rug. The binding is a wide twill tape (1-1/4") that folds over the carpet backing. It should be stitched on the top edge, and then can be folded over and glued to the back (use carpet glue). I don't know how big a piece of carpet you're working with, but on a large piece the sewing on the front side could be a bigger project than you want, so you might try gluing a small piece front and back to see if it will hold. You may need to trim the carpet pile back from the edge about 1/4 inch. 

Hope that helps, Diana

USING POLAR FLEECE
I was just wondering if rug making has uses for polar fleece in it's future? Patricia 

Hi Patricia, Good timing on your question. Actually polar fleece is mentioned in the new bulletin on 'beaded' rugs as one option instead of the traditional heavy wools. Polar fleece can be used for any of the shirrred or standing wool rugs, braided rugs, some of the chain braids, bohemian braid, and more. There are lots of possibilities, depending on whether you have lengths of the fabric, largish sewing scrap, or only small pieces.

Hope that helps, Diana