The crocheting together of heavy squares of wool was pretty well known in the 30's, 40's and 50's though the technique may be a good bit older. There were actually two different methods that achieved the same result, and the one I like best is first.

You can use these methods to join wool squares for a lap robe, afghan or bed "rugg", or the same technique can be used on different shaped pieces of wool as for the Christmas tree skirt. For the adventurous, you can even use these methods for clothing construction. (Cut the pattern pieces from heavy wool, with no seam allowance.) It does make very stylish vests and jackets. 

The crocheting in these pieces may seem awkward at first, since the crochet stitches are pulled through the wool. The stitches going through the wool are all single crochet stitches. They just look different since part of the stitch is stretched to meet the edge of the wool. It will take just a little practice to make your stitches even. 

Both the stadium blanket and the Christmas tree skirt here are quick, light projects, good for lap work. With the 2-step method, the pieces are very portable. 

A WOOL BED "RUGG" - the 2 step method

This technique was used for full bed coverings-- a bed "rugg", but for your first project a smaller stadium blanket or lap robe is better. For a 30-inch square stadium blanket, as shown, you will need 25 squares of heavy wool, each cut 6 inches square. In the "old days" these squares came from old overcoats, but any heavy wool will do fine. For larger projects, just cut more squares. You can vary the size of the squares, but squares larger than about 8 inches just don't look right. One skein of good quality crochet thread (like the Baroque cotton) will make a stadium blanket or afghan. You'll need more for a full bed "rugg". 

Choose a contrasting color of the thread to highlight the stitching (which creates an effect like a patched rug). Use a Size 8 steel crochet hook. (Size 5 through 11 will work, just make sure with the larger hooks that they will penetrate the wool easily.) A tapestry needle will be needed to lace in the thread ends, and safety pins to hold the squares together as you work. 

The stadium blanket is make in two steps. First the outside edge of each square is crocheted around, finishing the edge. Then rows of the squares are crocheted together. 

Directions for Each Square 
Make a slip knot in the thread, and place the loop over the crochet hook. Have the ball of thread behind the wool. Begin in the center of one side of the square. Insert the hook through the wool about ¼ inch from the edge. Pull a loop of thread through the wool, pulling up enough thread so that the top of the loop reaches just to the edge of the wool. There are 2 loops on the hook at this point. Complete a single crochet stitch by putting the thread over the hook, and pulling through both loops on the hook. 

Then chain 2. 

Along the sides of the square. *Insert the hook into the wool about ¼ inch to the left of the first single crochet stitch, and ¼ inch from the edge of the wool, and pull a loop through the wool as before. Complete the single crochet stitch, and chain 2. Repeat from * until you are about ¼ inch from a corner. 

At the corners. 
As you approach the corner of the square, adjust the placement of the last stitch along the side so that it is about ¼ inch from the next side. Complete that stitch, and chain 2. Insert the next single crochet stitch in exactly the same hole. (This stitch will lay diagonally to the point of the corner.) Chain 2. Insert one more single crochet stitch into the same hole. (This stitch begins the next side.) Chain 2. Then follow the directions for working along the sides above. 

When you get back to the starting point. As you get close to the starting point, adjust the position of the stitches so that the last single crochet is about ¼ inch from the very first stitch you made. Then chain 2, and slip stitch into the top of the first single crochet you made. Pull up the end and clip the thread leaving about 2 to 3 inches at the end.

Complete 25 squares in just the same way for a 30-inch stadium blanket or lap robe. Make 48 squares for a 3' X 4' afghan. If you're making a bed covering, you'll have to calculate how many squares will be needed. 

Some hints: Always remember to pull up sufficient thread with the single crochet stitch so that the thread lies flat, and the edge of the wool doesn't pucker or pull down. This is especially important at the corners. 

Don't worry if the single crochet stitches aren't perfectly spaced. The technique is "busy" enough that unevenness doesn't show unless someone really puts their nose on the work. It is better to have the stitches placed closer together when you are adjusting spacing, than too far apart.

Joining the squares. 
When all your squares are completed, lay them out on a table, arranging the colors to suit your tastes. Note that some woolens have different textures on their front and back sides, and that the crocheting will have a slightly different appearance front and back also. 

The squares are joined in rows of continuous single crochet--- joining all of the rows horizontally, and then joining all of the rows vertically.

For the first 2 rows to be joined, place the squares from one row face down on the other row. Secure their positions with safety pins, all across the row and pinning each pair of squares to the next pair. 

Begin at one end of the row, and work under the top 2 threads of the single crochets and underneath the chain stitches. Make sure to catch the stitching on both squares with each single crochet, but DO NOT worry about matching up the stitches exactly from one square to the other. All that really needs to match up are the corners! 

Use the stitching on the top piece of wool as a guide, and make 1 single crochet in the top threads of the single crochet stitches, and 2 single crochets underneath the chains. Work all of the way across the row with continuous single crochet. As you move from one pair of squares to the next, make sure that there is a single crochet in the corner stitch of the first pair of squares. The next stitch is placed in the corner stitch of the next pair of squares.

Complete the joinings of next row, and each following row of squares in sequence. Then fold over the rows going the other direction and join them each just the same way. 

When you have all of the rows joined, use the tapestry needle to lace back in any thread ends that are loose. Hint: You can save yourself some finishing time if you work over the end threads of the squares as you come to them. 

Optional edge finish: Single crochet all around the outside edge. You really don't have to do this, but some folks like the look better.

Using steam, press the project flat, and it's all done. 

A CHRISTMAS TREE SKIRT --- the 1 step method. 
This method is quicker than the one above, but is a little harder to get the feel for since the stitching goes alternately into the front layer and the back layer of the wool. This method can be used with squares also--- I just wanted to do something with different shapes. 

These directions will make a Christmas tree skirt that is about 42 inches across, with a 10 inch opening at the center for the tree. Just add or subtract from the length of the pieces for a larger or smaller tree skirt. Though these directions are particularly for heavy wool, you can also use a heavy felt if you prefer. 

Cut 10 rectangles of heavy wool measuring 3 inches wide and 18 inches long. Cut 9 triangles of heavy wool measuring 16 inches tall and 12 inches across the base.

Use a size 8 steel crochet hook and a good quality cotton crochet thread (like Baroque) or linen thread if you prefer. I used linen, but it isn't necessary. 

Lay out the triangles and rectangles alternately, arranging the colors or patterns of the wool as you like. You can pin them in sequence with safety pins, but I just stack them in order so I know which piece comes next. The tree skirt will begin and end with a rectangle, which forms the opening for easy placement around the tree. 

Hint: Make a practice piece using the directions for the bed "rugg" above, to get the feel of making single crochet stitches through wool. Then this stitching won't seem quite so awkward. 

Position the two pieces to be joined with right sides together, and use safety pins to hold them in place. Match the bottom corner of the triangle to the corner of the rectangle. Any trimming takes place at the top (point) of the triangle, but don't trim the pieces to fit until after all of the pieces have been joined. Stitching begins at the bottom corner of the triangle.

Make a slip knot over the end of the hook. Insert the hook through both layers of wool. Pull a loop of thread through both layers of wool (2 loops on the hook). Thread over and pull a loop through both loops on the hook. This completes a single crochet stitch. Chain 1.

*Insert the hook into the top layer of wool only, ¼ inch from the edge of the wool. Make a single crochet through the wool. Chain 1.

Insert the hook into the bottom layer of wool only, ¼ inch from the edge of the wool. Make a single crochet through the wool. Chain 1.

Repeat from * to the end of the pieces, then pull up the thread end and end off.

The stitches in the top layer of the wool should all be spaced about ¼ inch from each other, and the stitches in the bottom layer of wool should be spaced about ¼ inch from each other. Don't worry too much if the stitches aren't perfectly spaced, but it is better to put them closer together than further apart. 

When the seam is completed it will not want to lay flat. (See photo) DON'T pull on the pieces--- it can tear the wool. Instead after all of the pieces are joined, use a steam iron and press the seams flat. The steam will ease the wool into the proper position without tearing. 

Work all the way around the Christmas tree skirt, joining each piece until the whole is put together. The first piece and the last piece should be rectangles--- but don't join them together. Leave them separate so that the tree skirt can be put down and picked up without moving the tree. 

When all of the pieces are joined, examine the inside circle. There will certainly be pieces which didn't exactly match at the top end. Now is the time to trim them evenly. (See photo. The tree skirt is shown with all of the pieces joined, and before the center is trimmed.) 

Once you've trimmed the inner edge, make a finishing row all around the outside using the directions in the one-step method for the bed "rugg" above. Lace in the ends of the threads, and steam press the tree skirt so it is flat. Then it's ready to use. 

VARIATIONS
Any of these types of projects can gain an old-fashioned look by adding a row of 'tongues' or shingles (see Patched Rugs) around the outside edge. You can also get creative with multiple colors of crochet thread in a single piece. Old crocheted lace patterns also make a nice edging around the outside of either of these projects, if you want to dress them up a bit. 

CARING FOR A BED RUGG OR CHRISTMAS TREE SKIRT 
Since these projects are made with heavy wools, most will take a gentle hand washing and stay in fine shape. They can also be dry-cleaned, but do not machine wash any of these projects since the stitching can be damaged by the agitation. 
 
 

Copyright Sept. 2000, Rafter-four Designs, P O Box 40, Cocolalla, ID 83813